There are places you visit and places you discover slowly. The Serra da Arada and the municipality of S. Pedro do Sul belong to the second group. With schist villages, cold-water rivers and mountains that change colour with the seasons, this is one of the most beautiful and least known areas of Central Portugal.
Here is what we most like to suggest to guests staying at Casa Margou, in Gourim. It isn’t a checklist. It’s a starting point for planning your days at your own pace.
Walking in the Serra da Arada
The Serra da Arada is part of the Magic Mountains, a mountain territory shared by the municipalities of S. Pedro do Sul, Arouca, Castro Daire, Vale de Cambra and Sever do Vouga. It is a land of ancient trails, used for generations by shepherds and village people.
From Gourim you can set off to discover the mountain streams, the old watermills and routes such as the Incas Trail, which links the valleys between Póvoa das Leiras (S. Pedro do Sul) and Covelo de Paivô (Arouca). Always take water and proper footwear, and ask us about the ground conditions before you set off.
Visiting the schist villages
Gourim itself is a journey back in time: a village that was once left uninhabited and is now slowly being reborn, with schist ruins as far as the eye can see and stories of the old wolfram mines. Nearby there are other mountain villages worth a stop, such as Covas do Rio and S. Macário, which you pass on the way to Casa Margou.
River swims and mountain water
In summer, the rivers and small natural pools of the mountains are the best way to cool off. The water is cold and clean, and there are spots where you can spend a whole afternoon in the shade. At Casa Margou there is also an outdoor pool for the hottest days.
The S. Pedro do Sul thermal baths
S. Pedro do Sul is known for its thermal baths, one of the oldest spa resorts in the country. After a few days of walking, a thermal treatment or simply a stroll around Caldas is a good way to rest the body.
Eating well, Beira style
This is a region of good food. From the mountain pastures come dishes of kid goat, mutton and game. For those with a sweet tooth, the regional sweets of Lafões are a must:
- Pão de Ló (sponge cake)
- Pastéis de Vouzela
- Vouguinhas or Caçoilinhos do Vouga
- Local folar (Easter bread)
- Chickpea and cinnamon cake
To go with it, the Dão and Beira Alta regions offer many good wines. And don’t forget to take home a jar of Margou Mel, the heather honey from the Serra da Arada.
And above all, slow down
What we hear most from our guests is that the best thing about Gourim is the silence. There’s time to read on the terrace, listen to the streams, watch the stars with no light around. Sometimes the best activity is having nothing planned.
If you’d like to experience the mountains more deeply, have a look at our retreats, one for each season of the year.
